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Visit to Baku in Azerbaijan

20/03/2021 by Roobens 8 Comments

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My visit to Baku didn’t start out well. I had been in Armenia just before, and as I was explaining on my post about Yerevan, Armenia and Azerbaijan are not in good terms at all. Actually, it’s impossible to go to Azerbaijan from Armenia (and vice versa). I had to go back to Tbilisi in Georgia, before heading to Baku. Obviously the customs officer saw the Armenian stamp on my passport and she bombarded me with questions “What were you doing there? What are you going to do here? etc…“

baku

As usual, I did my little research before getting in the country and I can tell I got by pretty well. Because in some cases, when they see an Armenian stamp on your passport, they ask you to delete all the pictures you took in Armenia, otherwise you can’t get in the country! I had taken all the necessary precautions before getting in Azerbaijan and apart from my Armenian stamp on my passport, there was no trace of my stay in Armenia (I deleted all my Armenian pictures on my phone, on my camera, I exchanged all my Armenian money in Georgia, etc…).

flame towers baku

Table of Contents

  • Description of Baku
  • Baku, a mix between old and new
  • History of Baku
  • The locals are nice
  • Food in Baku
  • Religion in Azerbaijan
  • Things to do in Baku
  • How to get to Baku
  • How to get around in Baku
  • Where to stay in Baku
  • Baku travel tips

Description of Baku

I’m finishing my stay in the Caucasus area with the city of Baku, in Azerbaijan! If we forget about the customs officer, the first thing that struck me, it’s the kindness of people there. A guy helped me when he noticed I was struggling to find the right bus to go to my hostel, some Azeri girls looked happy to see me in their country (“Where are you from? You’re coming here, this is awesome!“), and they wished me to have a nice stay in the city, etc…

baku
“Ali and Nino” is THE national novel of Azerbaijan. It’s about a romance between a muslim Azeri boy and a christian Georgian girl. In the novel, they kiss in front of this fountain

Visiting Baku made me think about Dubai a little bit, but less flashy. Indeed, when you walk around in the city, you see several skyscrapers. The most famous in Baku are obviously the Flame Towers, completed in 2012 with a height of 190 meters (620 feet). The building consists of apartments, a hotel and office blocks.

flame towers baku
Flame Towers

Baku, a mix between old and new

Baku is a real mix between east and west, between old and new, between rich and poor. Their style is mostly like people from Western countries, but their mentality is mostly like people from Eastern countries. In Baku, there is the modernity of the Flame Towers and not too far the old town, 600 years old, with its iconic palace where various generations of kings used to live. In some areas, you can feel there is money in the city while in other ones, you would think Baku is a poor city.

baku

History of Baku

Around 1880, Baku was a small town, with only 7000 inhabitants. At the time, Baku was only what is the old town area today. Baku grew pretty fast thanks to the oil boom. Indeed, from 1860 to 1920, 50% of the oil sold in international markets was being extracted in Baku. Baku reached its peak around 1900. Today, 9.6 millions azeris live in the country (2 millions in Baku), and 25 millions in Iran. It’s because of the borders “drawn” during the 19th century.

old town baku
Old town

The locals are nice

Just like Tbilisi, you’ll find underground passages everywhere to cross the street. And just like in Armenia, people shake my hand in the streets, greet me, they ask to get a picture with me, then my name, then they introduce themselves, etc… Looks like they’re happy to see me! Taxi drivers constantly honk at me. People also stare at me more than usual and I get why. Six days in Azerbaijan, and I didn’t see one black person. Not even once! Usually, I bump into two or three black dudes…

fountains square baku
Around Fountains Square. A lot of people on evenings and during the weekend

As a result, on a Friday evening, as I was walking on the “bulvar” (pedestrianized road alongside the sea with people taking a walk), a few guys approached me, one of them had a big camera. They were shooting a TV show about tourism in Azerbaijan, they interviewed me, and I appeared on TV in Azerbaijan! After the interview, there was a line with people patiently waiting to get a picture with me. It was a small line (around 10 people), but still! They all got their picture!

bulvar baku
On the bulvar

Food in Baku

Life is cheap. It’s possible to find hostels to stay for less than 10 euros a day. A subway or a bus ticket only costs 0.20 manat (0.10€)! It’s also possible to eat for just a few euros. For those who want to splurge on food, I suggest to go to Firuze restaurant, admittedly touristic, but with typical food from Azerbaijan. Dolma (lamb mixed with rice and wrapped in vine leaves or cabbage leaves), kebab, duchbara (small dumplings filled with lamb, served in broth), khach (broth)…

nutelland baku
Nutella, chocolaty hazelnut spread, has its own shop in Baku! They propose a lot of desserts made with Nutella…
nutella burger nutelland baku
…and also a Nutella burger (didn’t try!)

Religion in Azerbaijan

Religion is not a big part of Azeri’s everyday life. Only 32% of them say they are religious (13th country the least religious in the world). They prefer to go to thermal baths, which are part of the culture in the country. Back in the days, men used to go there to close deals, and women used to go there to gossip.

Things to do in Baku

A little bit everywhere in the city, you’ll be able to see the Flame Towers, I talked about them earlier. Take some time just to walk around the old town, and check out the Maiden Tower, a 12th century monument. Next to it you’ll see the Shirvanshah’s palace, a 15th century palace. Both of them are inscribed under the UNESCO World Heritage List of Historical Monuments. Fountains Square is an area where you’ll find a lot of shops, restaurants, bars… This is where people gather after work or during weekends. Baku, a place to see for the mix between Western and Eastern culture!

maiden tower baku
Maiden Tower
Palace of the Shirvanshahs baku
In front of the palace of the Shirvanshahs

How to get to Baku

The easiest way to get there is by plane. Click here to check the latest flight prices. If you’re already in Caucasus, there are vans going to Baku. Don’t forget, it’s not possible to go directly to Azerbaijan from Armenia.

How to get around in Baku

There’s the subway and many buses in Baku. A one-way ride is 0.20 manat (0.10€). It’s also nice to stroll in the city.

Where to stay in Baku

If you’re traveling on a budget, the Flora Hostel is a good one, and it’s well-located. Click here to book your stay. For a mid-range hotel, the Auroom Hotel Baku is a nice place. Click here to book your stay. If you’re into luxury hotels, the Four Seasons is perfect for you. Click here to book your stay. Otherwise click here to check the hotels available in Baku.

Finally, if you prefer to stay in an apartment, click here to check the apartments available on Airbnb.

Baku travel tips

  • Wanna go to Azerbaijan? Check the visa policy here. If you need a visa, the procedure is pretty simple, and you can do it online. You’ll have to pay 24 US dollars. Just one day after applying, I had my e-visa in my inbox.
  • I haven’t been there but one hour away from Baku, in Gobustan, you’ll see mud volcanoes! You need a car to get there. There are more than 400 mud volcanoes in the country, more than half the total mud volcanoes in the world! You wanna go but you don’t have a car. Don’t worry, click here to go there with a guide.
  • Traveling soon? Check out my travel resources page! This list of travel accessories can also be useful!
  • Do not leave home without a travel insurance! Here’s why buy travel insurance!
  • Want a tailor-made trip to Azerbaijan? Get a free quote here!
  • Always use a VPN when traveling. I use ExpressVPN and I love it. Here’s why use a VPN when traveling.
  • There’s no laundromat in Baku… Make sure the hotel where you stay proposes laundry service. Otherwise, you’ll have to hand-wash your clothes…

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Comments

  1. Cleber says

    07/11/2018 at 22:08

    I liked the post… I have thought to go sightseeing again in the regions of Azerbaijan this month! One of the things I like most about this region are the rich places for sightseeing and entertainment and besides these buildings and houses reminds me of many movies… really is a wonderful place to visit in the summer season. I’ve met some regions of this country, and actually cooking has left me with water in my mouth. The city has restaurants with very tasty menus and also has great places for family outing. Thank you for sharing your experience with us about this country.

    Reply
    • Roobens says

      09/11/2018 at 12:20

      You’re welcome! I’m glad you liked the article!

      Reply
  2. Aryaan Asad says

    22/05/2019 at 17:55

    baku really nice place. i love that place

    Reply
    • Roobens says

      22/05/2019 at 18:09

      Yes it’s beautiful!

      Reply
  3. Luaay Elamir says

    19/12/2019 at 07:45

    Very informative!
    Thank you so much!
    I wonder ,I want to do the same trip in the future and leave Azerbaijan through Iran.
    what can I expect?

    Reply
    • Roobens says

      19/12/2019 at 13:51

      I took a flight from Baku to Tehran. If you go overland, depending on your citizenship, you’ll probably apply for an Iran visa beforehand.

      Reply
  4. Tori says

    18/01/2020 at 09:54

    Azerbaijan is very attractive to me, but I did not have the opportunity to be there. It’s great that you shared your incredible journey. I am intrigued and definitely want to be there! Thank you, the photos are very impressive!

    Reply
    • Roobens says

      19/01/2020 at 13:03

      You’re welcome!

      Reply

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