I spent two weeks in Georgia to attend a travel blogging conference. After the main event, I spent one week exploring the Svaneti region thanks to the Georgia tourism board. They invited bloggers and content creators to discover and explore the region. Needless to say, all opinions are my own.
Georgia (the country, not the US state) is in Caucasus, a region located between Eastern Europe and the Middle East. This beautiful country is known for being one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world, they’ve been doing it for at least 8000 years! Georgia is also known for its unique alphabet, its sulfur baths and its delicious food.
If you want to see more than just Tbilisi, the capital, I strongly suggest spending some time in Svaneti, in the northwest part of Georgia, not far from the Russian border. This mountainous, remote region of Georgia is surrounded by mountains including Mount Shkhara, which is 5201 meters high and Mount Ushba, 4710 meters high. This is the perfect province to visit if you’re into culture, nature, history, food or hiking. Let’s talk a bit more about Svaneti first, and then list the things to do in Svaneti.
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History of Svaneti
We’re not quite sure how long people have lived in Svaneti, but Svaneti has been has been inhabited for at least 12,000 years. We know a bit more about the Svans after the 3rd millenium BC. The Svans were known for being very brave and being strong warriors, doing everything possible to protect their lands and repel attempted invasions.
Throughout the centuries, the Ottoman Turks, the Persians, the Russians, etc. all tired to invade Svaneti unsuccessfully. It was a constant target of invaders due to its strategic location, but also spared from the destruction of invaders thanks to its remote location.
Small villages are scattered throughout Svaneti so they couldn’t be encircled with a protective wall. Therefore they built towers to protect themselves against attacks and natural disasters. Some of these towers date back to the 9th century. The higher the tower, the wealthier the family was.
Svaneti was a remote province of Georgia for a long time. Due to its remote location, they have their own unwritten language, very different from Georgian. Svaneti was often completely cut off from the outside world during winter due to snowfalls and avalanches. It’s not the case anymore thanks to paved roads connecting Zugdidi with Mestia. Svaneti only became accessible to the tourists in the mid-2000s. Mestia is the main town of Svaneti, with about 2000 inhabitants.
Things to do in Svaneti
Go trekking
One of the main reasons visitors go to Svaneti is to go hiking. Indeed, Svaneti offers spectacular mountain scenery, stunning nature and beautiful hiking trails. Svaneti is literally heaven on earth for hikers. The most popular hike is the Mestia to Ushguli trek. It’s an easy one that you can cover in 2 to 4 days. You can stay in guesthouses on the way.
There’s the Mestia to Koruldi Lakes trek which takes 7 hours the round trip and needs a better physical condition. There’s also the Mestia to Chaaladi Glacier trek which takes one full day round trip. You’ll enjoy gorgeous landscapes of Svaneti. Another popular one is the Ushguli to Shkhara Glacier trek.
Visit the museum of history and ethnography
The museum was founded in 1936, and you’ll learn about the history of Svaneti. The museum exhibits the greatest treasures of Georgia and Svaneti: books, jewelry, textiles, ornaments, weaponry, historical documents, etc. Some cultural artifacts date back to 2000 BC. It’s a small but very well put museum. The museum is open everyday from 10am to 6pm except on Mondays. It’s 7 GEL to get in (2.50€).
Visit Mikhail Khergiani House Museum
This museum is dedicated to Georgian alpinist Mikhail Khergiani, who climbed numerous mountains of the Caucasus but died in the Alps at the age of 37. He was a seven-time national champion climber and his nickname was “Tiger of the Cliffs”. In the museum, you learn more about his life and of course it exhibits photographs. The museum is open everyday from 10am to 6pm everyday except on Mondays. It’s 10 GEL to get in (3.50€).
Visit Margiani’s House Museum
This museum allows you to see how Svan families traditionally lived inside their house. This is actually one of the typical Svan watchtower, and this one dates back to the 12th century. You can climb to the top of the watchtower and enjoy a great view of Mestia. The museum is open from 10am to 6pm everyday except on Mondays.
Go skiing
If you go to Svaneti from December to April, why not go skiing? Take the cable car to Hatsvali, a popular ski resort in winter. It’s a great ski resort for beginner and intermediate skiers, and several locals told me it’s an underrated one. Once you’re on top, treat yourself with delicious Georgian dishes at restaurant Zuruldi, the highest restaurant in Georgia at 2430 meters above sea level, while enjoy stunning views of Mount Ushba.
Watch the movie Dede at Cinema Dede
Cinema Dede in Mestia plays one movie: Dede. This movie takes place in Svaneti in the 1990s and it’s about a woman struggling with the local traditions. Almost all the actors in the movie are local people who had no acting experience before! Watching Dede is a great way to understand more the Svan culture. FYI, the cinema is owned by the director of the movie, and one of the actresses works behind the bar.
Walk around Mestia
Even though Mestia is the main town in Svaneti, you can easily get everywhere on foot. Take some time to walk around and enjoy walking on the cobbled streets (covered with snow in winter). Watch the architecture, take some photos of the medieval Svan towers and wander around Seti Square, the main square of Mestia.
Stop at the tower of love
On your way to Ushguli from Mestia, stop at the tower of love. There are several versions of this legend but basically, a woman fell in love with a guy who went to war. She spent so much time there waiting for her lover, where they used to meet, that her brother built this tower for her as a shelter. Unfortunately, her lover died at war. For 1 GEL (0.35€), you can climb to the top and take a photo.
Climb to the Queen Tamar castle
We call her King Tamar but actually it was a woman. She loved Svaneti so much that she built a castle in Ushguli which was her summer residence. There’s not much left now except a ruined tower on top of a hill. You can hike up to the castle, it’s a 4 kilometers round trip and it’s not hard. Once you get there, you have a panoramic view of Ushguli with Shkhara in the background.
Take part in a culinary masterclass
Georgian food is just delicious. Don’t believe me? People traveling to Georgia gain on average 3 kilos (6 pounds!). And you can take part in a culinary masterclass to learn how to cook typical Georgian dishes. We went to Guesthouse Lali, and the owner Lali taught us how to prepare khinkali, kubdari and Svan dishes.
Attend a Svan hats masterclass
The Svans sometimes wear typical hats from the region and it’s possible to attend a masterclass to see how they make them. We went to Maia’s guesthouse and our host Maia explained the whole process while finishing one. You need 250 grams of wool to make one hat, and it takes three days to make one.
The experience costs 300 GEL (100€) whether you’re doing it on your own or a group of 20 people. After the masterclass, Maia and her daughter sang traditional Svan songs for us. The Svans are very attached to their culture and traditions. Some of their songs are 5000 years old! FYI, Maia is also doing food masterclasses.
Enjoy a hot tub in the nature
I had never done this before but it was such a cool experience! You can take a dip in a hot tub outdoors, in the nature, surrounded by pine trees. You need to go to Papa’s Qel, which is about 15 minutes away from Mestia by car. Papa’s Qel also has a sauna inside and you can relax while having a tea or some chacha (strong Georgian spirit drink).
There are other things to do and places to visit in Svaneti. For instance you can visit Lamaria Church and the ethnographic museum in Ushguli, drive over Zagari pass, a scenic route going to Ushguli or take photos of the gorgeous Enguri Dam.
How to get to Svaneti
There are several ways to get to Svaneti. There’s actually an airport in Mestia. There are flights on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday from Tbilisi to Mestia. It’s a 45-minute flight and it costs about 90 GEL (30€). There are also flights going to Mestia from Batumi or Kutaisi.
Otherwise you can get to Svaneti by marshrutka (minivan). It’s a 10-hour ride from Tbilisi and it’s 40 GEL (15€). The minivan leaves Tbilisi from Samgoro Bus Station or Station Square. You can also get to Svaneti by marshrutka from Kutaisi (5-hour ride, 30 GEL/10€) or Batumi (6-hour ride, 35 GEL/12€).
Best time to visit Svaneti
I went to Svaneti in winter but you can visit Svaneti anytime of the year. It really depends on what you’re into and what you want to do. If you’re into hiking, it’s better to go to Svaneti in the summer. If you like photography and enjoy beautiful colors to take photos, blooming wildflowers, fall foliage, etc. Then it’s better to go in spring or autumn. Plus less people visit Svaneti at that time of the year. If you want to go skiing or if you’re into winter sports, you should definitely go to Svaneti in the winter!
Where to stay in Mestia
There are numerous options when it comes to accommodation in Mestia. I stayed at Gistola Hotel, a great upscale hotel. The rooms are spacious with a balcony and views of the mountains. They also have a sauna, a swimming pool, a nice terrace and a restaurant serving great Georgian food. Click here to check the reviews, photos and availability. Two great options in Mestia are Hotel Posta and Paliani Hotel. Otherwise click here to check all the hotels available in Mestia. Click here to check all the hotels available in Ushguli.
Where to eat in Svaneti
As I said earlier, people gain weight when visiting Georgia. You’ll get why when having lunch or dinner there. There are so many good options! Cafe Laila is in the center of Mestia serving great food. Plus the staff is friendly (and very anti-Russia). Chalet Mestia Restaurant is another popular restaurant in Mestia, but I didn’t go.
Erti Kava is a nice coffee shop in Mestia, serving coffee but also delicious food. Twin Peaks is a bar and restaurant. You can get there to have drinks only, or to have lunch or dinner. You can also get there to party on weekends. If you go skiing at Hatsvali, you have to go to restaurant Zuruldi, the highest restaurant in Georgia. In Ushguli, we had lunch at Guesthouse Ushguli-Maspindzeli. In fact, wherever you’re staying, most guesthouses and hotels in Svaneti serve delicious food!
Is Svaneti safe ?
Svaneti is completely safe. After the fall of USSR, numerous criminals took refuge in Svaneti because it was such a remote area, not easily accessible. But that was more than 30 years ago and Svaneti is very safe now. I walked alone at night several times and it was completely fine.
You just have to be careful if you drive because the roads are not always in great condition. If you go hiking, don’t do it by yourself and always tell someone where you’re planning to go. In case of an emergency, call 122. You’ll find several pharmacies in Mestia.
Money in Svaneti
You’ll find several ATMs in Mestia or banks to exchange money. It’s recommended to bring cash but you can pay by card in hotels and some restaurants.
I have to thank the Georgia tourism board and the Traverse team for this wonderful trip! I honestly had a great time, and many people who watched my stories on Instagram said they didn’t know the region was that beautiful! I’ll be back for sure! If you want to spend some time in the country, check out this list of places to visit in Georgia.
- Traveling soon? Check out my travel resources page! This list of travel accessories can also be useful!
- Never ever travel without travel insurance! It will protect you against illness, injury, theft and cancellations. Click here to get one. Here’s why get travel insurance.
- Want a tailor-made trip to Georgia? Get a free quote here!
- Always use a VPN when traveling. I use ExpressVPN and I love it! Here’s why use a VPN when traveling.
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